Croxetti del Doge: food and sense of place in Genoa

 

The wooden stamps for the Croxetti del Doge

On Saturday, March 29, and Sunday, March 30, I attended the Evoè Festival, a lively food and wine event in Recco, organised by Daniela and Lucio Bernini of the Consorzio della Focaccia di Recco col formaggio IGP. This festival provided a wealth of opportunities to reconnect with friends, colleagues, and former students from my 30-year journey in tourism and gastronomy alongside Umberto Curti.

The highlight of our visit to the Evoè Festival was the official presentation of "I Croxetti del Doge," a unique recipe crafted by Umberto for the Rolli Experience, a cultural tourism initiative promoted by the Municipality of Genoa. This exquisite dish was brought to life by two talented restaurateurs from the Liguria Gourmet circuit: one from Genoa San Desiderio, Bruxaboschi, and the other from Recco, Da ö Vittorio. Additionally, the artisan "Picetti" workshop from Varese Ligure contributed handcrafted wooden stamps to create beautifully engraved pasta discs.

Umberto’s approach to recipe creation is always rooted in the essence of the region, harmonising flavours and evoking a sense of place. "I Croxetti del Doge" embody this philosophy, featuring local ingredients such as avetano sarazzö (salty, seasoned ricotta), Misto Chiavari nocciole (hazelnuts), marjoram, and Riviera Ligure DOP olive oil. The delightful crunch of hazelnut kernels adds a unique texture that elevates the dish. Preparing this recipe at home is simple; a blender can substitute for a mortar, and commercially made croxetti can save time for those in a hurry. Pair it with a glass of Pigato DOC from the Riviera di Ponente for the perfect accompaniment.

An Evocation of Territoriality

Umberto envisioned Croxetti del Doge not as an alternative gastronomic brand competing with the many culinary treasures of Genoa and Liguria — such as focaccia, farinata, minestrone, pesto, ravioli, pansoti, and more — but as a creative addition to the regional repertoire. By juxtaposing familiar and cherished ingredients, this dish represents a delightful and credible option to the Ligurian cookbook: it can be embraced by local restaurateurs and showcased at prestigious events, including institutional dinners in historic patrician palaces and educational missions abroad.

As we look ahead, the ball is now in the court of the City Council of Genoa to explore further developments and collaborations. Meanwhile, we thoroughly enjoyed our time at the Evoè Festival and are grateful for the enthusiasm that Umberto's recipe has generated, particularly in Recco, where it was artfully prepared by Matteo Losio and Federico Bisso.

Buon appetito!

Luisa Puppo