All about Pigato. Ligurian wines

Pigato is a Ligurian white wine deriving its name from the homonymous indigenous variety, co-starring Vermentino in the vastest regional DOC (Controlled Denomination of Origin). Top-quality Pigato is to be found at an altitude of 300 meters, where it enjoys the strong thermal excursions that generate variety of scents and natural acidity. There, the Maritime Alps shelter the vineyards from cold and perturbations, while the sea winds blow gently from the coast. 

 

“Pigato” derives from” pigau”, local for “speck” – i.e., the small rusty spots on ripe grapes. This fascinating variety of uncertain origins was (most likely) introduced in Liguria at the end of the 17^th century: planted in Ortovero (entroterra of Albenga) in 1830, 53 years later it was mentioned in the Bollettino ampelografico. The first Pigato wine was sold in 1950.

 

Pigato is grown mainly in the Albenganese, in the Imperiese, and in the Arroscia Valley. The archetypical Ligurian terraces on sunny slopes provide clay-rich soil, which absorbs water like a sponge and releases it in the summer heat. Moving from Albenga to the entroterra, as the road starts to climb, the hamlet of Salea (seat of a Pigato festival) is blessed by generous sea breezes and mineral soil, endowing wine with sapidity, acidity and balminess – the advocates of longevity. On to Pieve di Teco, Ortovero is the cradle of highly sapid Pigato, featuring in the small town’s dessert – pesche (peaches) al Pigato. In the province of Imperia, the Arroscia Valley leads to Ranzo, surrounded by olive trees, maquis, dry-stone terraces. The soil fades from the red of oxides to the white of clay, as crus celebrate a sapid, mineral wine and an exceptional terroir.

 

Harvesting (usually) takes place in the second part of September. The return of ancient winemaking techniques (fermentation on skins) instead of modern white vinification (soft press) has often proved satisfying. Maturation before bottling and refinement lead to fullness of taste.  

 

Pigato is straw yellow with golden hues, brightness to the eye evocative of its natural acidity. The nose is persistent and intense, fruity and floral: distinctive notes of aromatic herbs (sage, rosemary, thyme and – sometimes – basil) plus ripe peach and apricot, notes of citrus fruits, honey and scents of the maquis. On the palate, fine body and structure: sapid, dry and fruity, it features good acidity, warmth, persistence, medium alcohol content, mineral notes and a bitter almond (or peach stone) finish. Pigato is to be enjoyed young (3 years), though experimentation has proved that vinification on the skins can provide great personality defying time. Commitment and technology have fostered the reputation of Pigato, now available also in a sparkling (Charmat) version.

 

My English abstract of the article as published on LiguriaFood

Luisa Puppo

 

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