How to master the spectacular Art of Cima alla Genovese

 

Cima alla genovese is an evergreen of the Ligurian cookbook. Not surprisingly, it was the protagonist of a moving piece written by renowned Genoese songwriter Fabrizio De Andrè.

Though rewarding, cima (stuffed veal breast) is a chef’s piece de resistance. Recipes vary throughout the region, yet the technique stays the same. 

Manual ability and experience are the secrets to success, as the tiniest variant or accident can spoil your efforts. Cima is to be no less than perfect.

Cima is a laborious preparation for stuffed veal breast, similar to French poitrine de veau farcie.

This festive preparation (a must at Easter time) calls for stuffing veal breast with a cornucopia of eggs, ground meat, offal, vegetables, grated cheese, aromatic herbs, and – as an option – spices.

The veal breast is sewn into a pocket, stuffed, punctured (to prevent bursting), wrapped in a cloth and then boiled in water for a few hours (though some areas of Liguria opt for baking or casserole cooking). Once ready, it cools off under a heavy weight (e.g., marble mortar).

Thinly sliced, cima comes with salsa verde or other condiments/side dishes. Fried breaded slices are a treat to enjoy on the following day.

Throughout Liguria, the proportion of vegetables and meat changes, as well as the addition of pine nuts or blanched pistachios.

Variants count by the dozen: to cite but two, in Prelà (IM) the filling features artichokes, whereas in Montalto Ligure (IM) kid is the choice instead of veal breast. In Lunigiana, hard times imposed the supremacy of vegetables over meat (those affluent Genoese!).

Whichever your preference, the fundamentals are to be respected: eggs, Parmigiano Reggiano, marjoram, vegetables, and meat.

Wine matching: dry red, light/medium-bodied, such as DOC Riviera Ligure di Ponente Rossese.  

My English abstract of an article published on LiguriaFood

Luisa Puppo

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