The History of Chinotto di Savona: A Refreshing Tale
The long history of chinotto abounds in secrets and
legends – according to one of them, in the 16th century, a sailor from Savona
brought the myrtle-leaved orange tree from China to the Ligurian Ponente, where
it flourished, its fruits appreciated for their scent and flavor after
candying.
Chinotto di Savona: yesterday and today
Once upon a time, seafarers sailing along the Ligurian coast perceived
the scent of blossoming citrus groves, which provided citrons, oranges, lemons, and outstanding chinotti (i.e., myrtle-leaved
oranges).
Through time, production kept growing, though threatened by an
unfortunate sequence of events.
In 2004, Slow Food teamed with a handful of farmers
and manufacturers to safeguard and promote this rare citrus fruit, raising
awareness about its potential. The future looks promising, and figures
(growers, production, plants) are increasing.
Nearly 800 plants, more than 1,500 new implants, and 10,000 – 20,000 kg.
of fruit per year are used mainly in the food industry, to a smaller extent in
cosmetics.
The Chinotto di Savona supply chain,
backed by the “Il chinotto nella rete” business network, aims at
promoting the whole production area.
Chinotto di Savona, a gourmet "special guest"
A relative of Citrus myrtifolia, the chinotto
di Savona features big leaves and – as for fruits - thinner zest and
absence of seeds.
Traditional processing includes candying, fruits in syrup, and marmalade,
which up to the early 20th century, nourished commerce and export. The soft
drink based on chinotto boasts widespread success and has
fostered the popularity of the fruit itself. It is a star of both industrial
and artisanal productions. Revitalization generated positive side effects and
suggested alternative uses of chinotto in the food
(experiments abounding in pastry, ice cream, beers, EVO…) and cosmetics
industries. The Chinottino liqueur is worth further studies
and historical research.
Chinotto is a symbol of Ligurian agro-food traditions. Savona has treasured this gem thanks to the commitment of skillful growers and manufacturers. Fruits, leaves, dried zest: the chinotto chain is a blend of memory and innovation.
My English abstract of this article was published in LiguriaFood
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