What makes Pandolce Genovese so special? A local's perspective

 

A brief history of pandolce, a.k.a. Genoa’s cake

The splendid emblem of Genoese Christmas pasticceria inherited a 16th-century wealth of ingredients (raisins, pine nuts, candied fruit) from ancient Eastern traditions. According to traditional lore, the origins of this demanding preparation (a cook’s pièce de résistance) date back to Andrea Doria's time. The Admiral announced a competition dedicated to the master pastry chefs of the Superba – yet, more likely, pandolce was the fruit of ingenuity (households made the most of sourdough and honey). 

Which is the difference between pandolce alto and pandolce basso?

Pandolce comes in two versions: pandolce alto (i.e., high), the most ancient, and pandolce basso (i.e., low), a sort of shortcrust pastry. Once a simple recipe (pandolce = bread sweetened with honey), through time, it was enriched with dried and candied fruit.

Pandolce alto relies on sourdough, and its preparation parallels bread processing. Pandolce basso instead features baking powder, activated by oven heat. As a consequence, pandolce alto features the shape of a leavened loaf, a sweet bread (the literal translation of pan dolce) enriched with dried fruit; pandolce basso– as we said before - is akin to shortcrust pastry. The two versions of pandolce share a set of ingredients such as pine nuts, raisins, fennel seeds or anise, candied fruit, and orange blossom water. 

Nowadays, the processing is easier thanks to technology (leavening is protected and controlled), while in the past the mere changing of weather conditions could turn manufacturing into the most challenging of enterprises. The “keys to success” of pandolce alto are first-quality ingredients, excellent sourdough, and dexterity in the shaping of the half-sphere loaves. This process (called turning) is repeated twice to prevent damage during leavening. Last but not least comes baking. Skillful bakers aim at balanced overall sweetness. Pandolce basso is more corroborating: proper balance makes it a pleasant and appreciated option.

Pandolce genovese: Christmas traditions and wine matching 

A must on the Christmas table, it still boasts the ritual laurel bough decoration and was traditionally cut by the pater familias. Two slices were usually set aside in a tin box: one for the first beggar to knock at the door, the other with a view to February 3rd, when San Biagio, the throat’s patron saint, was feasted.

Wine matching: semi-sparkling moscato, e.g., DOC Golfo del Tigullio-Portofino (pandolce alto); passito (white berry), e.g., DOC Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà (pandolce basso).

As for the local perspective on pandolce genovese... I do think a picture is worth a thousand words - salute!

 

DOC Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà, the iconing Mediterranean passito wine

Luisa Puppo 

This is the fascinating world of tastes and crafts that LiguriabyLuisa discloses to foreign markets and buyers (tour operators, travel agencies, organizations, associations, food&wine dealers, and import/export professionals....).

Contact me and detail your queries