Testa in cassetta, the queen of Ligurian cold cuts
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| Testa in cassetta |
Testa in cassetta confirms that - apart from the squeak - there really is nothing to be thrown away of the pig.
In fact, it
is precisely from the head of the pig (better still, pork) that testa in
cassetta is made. The heir of an ancient tradition, rooted throughout
Italy, this splendid salume (cold cut) is mainly a winter treat, to be
eaten "fresh", as it does not suit ageing. The name is said to derive
from the wooden containers used to press the freshly made salume, hence
other names such as soppressata.
It was first
called testa in calzetta, then the expression turned into testa in
cassetta, and this is how it is known today.
Though it is
a mixture of different meats brought together after boiling and seasoning, its
balance is designed by each producer according to specific methods and tastes -
subtleties that distinguish the different producers. Secrets aside, recipes
vary even as per their basic ingredients. Pork’s head plays the lead role, yet
smaller portions of bacon, beef cuts (e.g., tongue, muscle, etc.) can be added.
It is then salted and seasoned with various flavours, not to forget about the
addition of wine, liqueurs or distillates in the curing process: Marsala, rum, grappa,
aniseed or other, for a final 'personalised' flavour.
My English abstract of the article as published on LiguriaFood
This is the fascinating world of tastes and crafts that LiguriabyLuisa discloses to foreign markets and buyers (tour operators, travel agencies, organizations, associations, food&wine dealers and import/export professionals....).
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