Liguria, a land of rice savoury pies
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| Rice savoury pie |
Rice
savoury pies are produced everywhere in Liguria.
A world of
variants: double layers of dough wrapping the filling; single-layer serving as
a base; batter-based; and, finally, the so-called "naked" versions,
resting on a mere sprinkling of breadcrumbs, perhaps more similar to polpettoni
and omelettes. Furthermore, stuffing ingredients make up a kaleidoscope of
differences. Rice savoury pies, like other traditional specialties, are an
important feature of popular Ligurian culture – better still, they are a family
matter living of nuances.
Rice, in
its several varieties, always plays the lead role,
According
to Emanuele Rossi (“La vera cucina genovese”, Livorno 1865), boiled and drained
rice should be placed in a casserole with a soffritto mix of minced onion,
parsley and mushrooms (he does not specify whether fresh or dried, perhaps seasonality
was taken for granted) plus oil. Stirred briefly, to avoid sticking to the
bottom, seasoned rice must be removed from the heat, adding abundant grated
Parmigiano cheese. Once cold, Rossi advises to continue as if it were a
pasqualina savoury pie, that is, placing the rice on a sheet of dough and
covering it with a layer of prescinsêua, the classic fresh and tart cheese loved
especially between Genoa and eastern Liguria.
As for
differences, westernmost Liguria boasts "torta verde", often prepared
mixing rice and small pumpkins. In some inland sections of the Savona province,
the filling includes Swiss chards; in the Genoese area rice is almost always
cooked in milk and not accompanied by vegetables. In eastern Liguria prescinsêua
is frequently used, while in the La Spezia area variety rules. However, the
version with tomatoes from Soviore (Monterosso) or the "scema"
variant from Sarzana stand out, rice being placed on a layer of batter or breadcrumbs.
My English abstract of the article as published on LiguriaFood
This is the fascinating world of tastes and crafts that LiguriabyLuisa discloses to foreign markets and buyers (tour operators, travel agencies, organizations, associations, food&wine dealers and import/export professionals....).
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