Levanto and gattafin, a love story

Liguria has always mastered the use of vegetables, which – together with other “humble” ingredients – play the lead role in famous dishes such as torta Pasqualina. This also applies to gattafin, the pride of Levanto, a coastal town close to the Cinque Terre. Gattafin are mouthwatering big ravioli stuffed with vegetables (either wild herbs or Swiss chards) fried in piping hot EVO.

Their curious name most likely derives from Gattafure, vegetable savoury pies from the Genoese Renaissance, or from the quarries located in the “La Gatta” (i.e., the she-cat) area: it seems that workers on their way back home picked wild herbs and brought them to their wives…

Whichever the truth, what counts is the opportunity of tasting this treat – an evergreen must in Levanto’s deli shops and focaccerie, as well as in the most traditional restaurants of this part of the Riviera di Levante.

Enjoy gattafin with a glass of local wines, the fruit of the truly heroic viticulture practised in this rugged terroir.

The Cinque Terre (a National Park), only a few kilometres away, stand as the icon of this corner of Liguria, where also Levanto provides several hints for both one-day trips and longer stays. This fully equipped tourist town was an important Medieval port: goods travelled from Levanto towards the entroterra and the Vara Valley along a maze of “salt routes” as well as along the nearby Via Francigena.

At the beginning of the 20^th century, Levanto began its new life as a coastal resort: evidence still shows in the important dwellings of the age (e. g. “Villa Agnelli”). Nowadays, an array of services meets the needs and wants of different targets. Ferries to Portofino, Cinque Terre and Portovenere operate regularly in the summer.

Surfing has become extremely popular, especially on windy days.

Furthermore, a pleasant cycling trail along the ancient railway tracks takes bikers and guests on a few-kilometre ride to the sea village of Bonassola. 

Relaxation lovers have plenty of reasons to laze out on the beach and – why not? – taste gattafin!

 

My English abstract of the article as published on LiguriaFood

 

Luisa Puppo

 

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