Alassio, a gourmet journey in the Riviera delle Palme
Our exploration of Alassio’s De. Co. (i.e., Denominazione Comunale, issued by single municipalities through a resolution adopted by the city council to protect and rule the recipe and the preparation of traditional local food) products starts in Solva, a scenic tiny hamlet overlooking the gulf: every year at the end of March, a fair celebrates biscette, i.e., small snake-shaped crunchy biscuits.
From Solva we move on to Moglio, another ancient hill village, once the residence of Tonnarotti, the tune fishing and processing specialists: their most intriguing pièce de résistance was (and still is) named Ventre, dried tuna tripe stewed with potatoes, tomatoes, pine nuts, parsley, carrot, onion, garlic and bay leaves. Brave palates enjoy it on the first Sunday in August on occasion of a dedicated sagra (i.e., food festival). Moglio is also known for Tumatetta, simmering (low heat) for two hours – the sauce features tomatoes, onions, basil, salt and EVO. Other treats include seasonal vegetable fritters (known in Moglio as Mugnarelle) and Machetto, a mortar-made anchovy paste featuring salt, oil and butter. Anchovies, once called “the bread of the sea”, also play the lead role in the acciugotto, a yummy sandwich starring anchovies seasoned with a mix of parsley, capers, bread, white vinegar and EVO.
The popular neighbourhood of Fenarina focuses on sardines, covered with a filling made with the soft inside of a bread roll soaked in milk and minced Swiss chards, parsley, garlic (a tiny amount), marjoram, parmigiano, eggs, salt and pepper, and a final dusting of breadcrumbs before deep frying in oil. From Fenarina to Borgo Barusso the time is right to try shortcrust pastry Gumeletti stuffed with apricot jam. The “friscioi de Meira” are to be enjoyed in Borgo Coscia in early September. Whichever the season, you cannot leave Alassio without tasting the “Baci di Alassio”, the gourmet flagship of this nice coastal resort town.
The baci (i.e., kisses) were created at the beginning of the 20th century by pastry chef Rinaldo Balzola as he was thinking about a specialty tourists could bring home as a souvenir. They are a concoction of hazelnuts, sugar, eggs, cocoa and honey, modelled in a a small-rose shape. The two halves are sealed by a chocolate ganache. The Balzola family provides other delights such as the Pane del Marinaio (i.e., the seaman bread), a local version of classic pandolce, and the Amaro del Saraceno, featuring more than 40 local herbs essences. The best occasion to enjoy all the De.Co productions of Alassio is the feast of the Immacolata (December 8th), when a three-day food fair takes place in central Piazza Matteotti.
My English abstract of the article as published on LiguriaFood
Luisa Puppo
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