All about Vermentino colli di Luni Doc. Ligurian wines

Set between sea and mountains, the narrow arch of Liguria stretches for 330 km between Ventimiglia and Sarzana in an uninterrupted succession of coastal settlements. 

 

Complex circulation and traffic streams have shaped local dwellers’ somewhat gruff character, too: Ligurians have a reputation as keepers of traditions and individuality, often reluctant to open themselves up to the new. This applies to wine, too: yet, tasting follows the rule of impartiality when it comes to evaluating territories and diversity.  

 

In the easternmost part of the region, the Colli di Luni area is a precious fragment of Liguria embedded in Tuscany. The ancient town of Lunae (i.e., moon – the town celebrated the Moon goddess) was a lively, rich Roman centre, whose busy port blossomed with the commerce of local wines (appreciated by Pliny the Elderly) and marble from nearby Carrara. 

 

The landscape is varied: Mediterranean maquis, olive groves, vineyards, medieval borghi, the Magra river, the Apuan Alps and – last but not least - the sea. A poet’s place.

 

In the Early Middle Ages, the decline of Luni forced inhabitants to flee the plan and find refuge in the hills, where vine growing (especially vermentino) survived. Hillsides rise steeply (200 – 500 m) and temperature ranges are notable, two features which foster gradual ripening and aromatic intensity. Terrain, microclimate (the sea is just a stone’s throw away) and man’s efforts result in unique, scenting wines.  The mountains have been tamed and terraced in tiny patches. 

 

There live and work heroic vine growers who love the land of their fathers and are committed to quality, improvement and new winemaking techniques. The dynasties of Vermentino are linked by the trait d’union of respect for the environment and valorisation of indigenous varieties.

 

The origins of vermentino are debated – according to some, it might have reached Liguria from Spain (Aragon) in the 14th century, reaching maximum development throughout the Mediterranean basin in the 16^th century. Confusion reigns also as regards etymology, hypotheses abound (e.g., "vermene”, young twist).

 

Ampelography is clear: vermentino is a clone of malvasia: the Ligurian terroir changes its varietal characteristics: less aromatic, more acid – resulting in freshness and sapidity. 

 

The only grape variety to feature in almost all regional DOCs, it varies in body and persistence. Highest quality is achieved in the Riviera ligure di Ponente DOC and in the Colli di Luni DOC, located at the two extremities of Liguria.

The Vermentino provided by Arcola, Ortonovo and Castelnuovo Magra is rich in vast, persistent flower and fruity notes, warm yet fresh and sapid; the Vermentino of the ponente is more herbaceous and sapid.

 

The Colli di Luni features aromas of ripe exotic fruit, and subtle hints of Mediterranean vegetation and acacia honey. The top cru is Sarticola, in the hills of Castelnuovo Magra (even ancient Romans were fans of Sartucola). Thanks to pre-fermentation maceration this wine provides minerality, citrus fruits, salty air, yellow peach, a kaleidoscope of hues. The somewhat greasy overture immediately turns into freshness and sapidity, alcohol as a backbone and a lasting bitter note.

 

Food matching calls for simple fish preparations (baked, boiled), basil pesto (agrestic meets aromatic), white meat, but cappon magro is a fit pairing too!

 

My English abstract of the article as published on LiguriaFood

Luisa Puppo

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