All about Dolceacqua. Ligurian wines.

How to reach Dolceacqua

Start your drive in Bordighera along the Via Romana - the ancient Aurelia - to Soldano, then up to Dolceacqua. Reach Apricale (from Latin apricus, sunny), a lively borgo surrounded by olive groves and small vineyards featuring the 11th century “castello della Lucertola” (i.e. lizard castle). Apricale teems with tiny shops and eating joints where to enjoy savoury sardenaira pie, hearty stockfish brandacujùn, pungent sheep-milk brussu curd, sweet pansarole fritters and cubaite, rich in honey and hazelnuts.

Down the parallel valley, get to Dolceacqua, located along the Nervia stream (its 33-metre medieval hunchback bridge is a wonder) and dominated by the Doria castle. Claude Monet fell in love with this enchanted maze of caruggi (i.e., alleys) and dedicated 4 paintings to the place.  

 

Taste ligurian wine.

The centre hosts one of the four seats of the Enoteca Regionale della Liguria, where to stop for a tasting of the different varieties of Rossese. From Dolceacqua, steep hairpin bends climb valleys whose exposure – though less rainy - reminds some of the Langhe region. Roccese (alias Rossese) of Dolceacqua: 33 crus - Posaú, Luvaira, Arcagna, Pian del Vescovo, Giuncheo, Alpicella… -, characterized by unique features which show in the wine. The multi-layered soil itself gives evidence to a millenary history. 

 

Rossese (which seems to have no relations with other national and international grape varieties) has ancient origins: freestanding pruning hint back to Greek settlers, but it was up to the Etruscans and Romans to boost local viticulture.

Maintenance is heroic, a matter of hard manual work and small dry-stone walls, called “maixei”. Sadly, neglect is looming.

 

The Rossese DOC was the first to be established in Liguria (1972). An intense ruby red colour, tending to garnet with ageing; fragrant and fruity, persistent, red rose, mineral notes (flint), hints of Mediterranean maquis, black pepper, red and yellow fruits, spiced; the taste is smooth, warm, sapid, with a slight bitterish aftertaste. Its personality features delicate acidity and good body, tempered by elegance. Suits ageing. 

 

The invigorating power of Rossese di Dolceacqua was appreciated, among others, by admiral Andrea Doria and Pope Paul III, not to forget about Napoleon Bonaparte, who stocked up during a visit to the Doria household.

This great Italian wine, its tannins pronounced yet not aggressive, is the perfect match for the sapidity of Ligurian cuisine – from fresh pasta (including ravioli) to meat dishes, as well as stockfish stew.  

 

My English abstract of the article as published on LiguriaFood

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