Rapallo, the scenic heart of the Tigullio Gulf

A charming coastal town which displays a profusion of noble residences and is – by its nature – a scenic location

Rapallo (Genoa)

Back in the 1950’s, singer Achille Togliani sang “E’ una festa di colori/quando vien la primavera/a Rapallo tutti i fiori/sai mi parlano di te”… (it is a feast of colours when spring arrives, in Rapallo all the flowers tell me of you”) – please note, lyrics by Totò, stage name of Antonio De Curtis, probably the most iconic Italian performer (as well as comedian, actor, writer, singer, poet) of all times.

 

When Dario Sabatelli asked me to write this feature story about Rapallo, I was tempted to “lay claim” to a monographic issue of LiguriaFood, on account of the cornucopia of riches of the place, a.k.a. the heart of the Tigullio area…

The list of resources is long and includes a castle, museums, the Valle Christi monastery, the Montallegro sanctuary aerial cableway, a golf course, a thriving calendar of events (complete with amazing fireworks), palm-lined seaside promenades (the perfect choice of honeymooners and romantic couples).

This charming coastal town (30,000 inhabitants) displays a profusion of noble residences and is – by its nature – a scenic location (I would rather say a movie set), loved through time by Nietzsche, Liszt, Sibelius, Maupassant, Pound, Hemingway… 

Rapallo is an easy reach both by car (highway exit) and train (the railway station is conveniently located in the centre).

The 16th century was built after pirate Dragut’s raids (1549). Local dwellers “set it on fire” with an explosion of fireworks every year on July 3rd, on occasion of the celebrations of the Madonna di Montallegro. 

 

Since 1934 the panoramic Montallegro sanctuary has been linked to central Piazzale Solari by the small blue cabins of a daring cableway, which provides the thrill of a 600 metres difference in height in a 7-minute ride. 

Furthermore, Rapallo treasures a secluded museum (housed in Villa Tigullio) dedicated to bobbin lace, the close relative of craftsmanship such as velvet (Zoagli) and damask (Lorsica, in the Fontanabuona Valely) manufacture.

Last but not least, food. The Tigullio area enjoys a bounty of fish, crustaceans, PDO EVO, CDO wines Bianchetta, Vermentino, Ciliegiolo, Moscato…). Rapallo, in particular, relishes triangle-shaped pansoti (sarsa de nöxe – walnut sauce – is a must), and shortcrust pastry cubeletti stuffed with rich jams (ask for quince)… 

My English abstract of the article by Umberto Curti as published on Liguria Food  

Luisa Puppo

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