San Colombano Certenoli: a rural journey from the Middle Ages to the present

The first part of the toponym of this village, set in the tranquillity of the entroterra of the Tigullio Gulf, is linked to Saint Columba, the Irish missionary who in 614 founded the monastery of Bobbio after numberless wanderings across Europe.

Historic brige

Where once hunting and breeding ruled, the monks imported the culture of farming, dry stone terraces (a welcome option for vines) still bearing evidence after centuries. Viticulture features the rarity of Scimiscià (a.k.a. Scimixà, Cimixà, Ximixà, Cimicià…), a peculiar, indigenous white wine which suits stockfish (passito versions deserve to be mentioned, too). Scimiscià is the apple of the eye of a committed farmer, Domenico Cuneo Castillo from agriturismo “U cantin”.

 

The centre is located in the Fontanabuona valley, the valley of slate and host wafers (from the sacred to the profane: there stands the only manufacturer in Liguria who makes the traditional wafers used in the preparation of monumental fritto misto).

Demographic figures are timidly improving in this vast area that comprises the slopes of Monte Ramaceto (whose beech woods are the choice of hikers and bikers) and the Cichero valley (try its formaggette…), which borders the Sturla valley. The Palazzetto Cuneo is the most significative building (and museum).

 

Lastly, Calvari, is also the seat of the Expo campionaria della Fontanabuona e del Tigullio – a late August festival which features food stands and events.

The local cookbook is rather rustic: fresh pasta battolli, la baciocca di patate (a potato-based savoury pie), lstuffed vegetables and meat (from boiled hen to wild boar), sometimes cooked on the ciappa (slab). Kitchen gardens provide basil, aubergines and other vegetables, but do not miss Monter Nature’s other: gifts wild herbs (the protagonists of preböggiön), honey, round hazelnuts and chestnuts. … Hazelnuts play the lead role in desserts (plan a stop in Calvari and visit the “Torre Federico”bakery and catering) and brittles, whereas versatile chestnuts are roasted or ground into flour, the main ingredient of castagnacci tarts, fresh pasta picagge matte… 

My English abstract of the article by Umberto Curti as published on Liguria Food  

Luisa Puppo

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