Castlenuovo Magra: a castle and a glass of Vermentino along the Via Francigena

Set in the easternmost section of the province of La Spezia, Castelnuovo Magra is a charming hill borgo awarded by TCI the coveted Orange Flag status. Furthermore, it is a hub of gourmet excellences: the seat of the Enoteca regionale della Liguria, it boasts some of the best Italian Vermentini DOC, outstanding EVO, pleasant trattorie, prosciutta treated with fat and spices…

 

Castelnuovo Magra (La Spezia)

 

 

 

Castelnuovo is one of my dining stopovers after a visit of the Piagnaro Museum in Pontremoli (the realm of stele statues) or a tour of the precious ruins of Luni, the Roman commercial port which I carefully researched for my essay “Il cibo in Liguria dalla preistoria all’età romana” (2012) – as well as Martial’s love for local cheese and Ovid’s passion for a specific cake (a forerunner of spungata?).

My personal memories of the trattoria “All’Armanda” include a narrow dining room (and a minuscule restroom), iconic dishes – e.g., stuffed lettuces, pasta and beans, Easter tripe – and wines – recent experiences include Vermentino nero (“Terenzuola), elevated by a slight oaked touch.

 

History reigns throughout the whole area: pilgrims, trades, vicissitudes and fights… tales narrated by the Via Francigena and Dante’s hendecasyllables on the Malaspina household.

 

In 2003 Castelnuovo Magra joined the “Comuni Italiani sulla Via Francigena/Romea” municipality network. This famous itinerary follows the track of Sigeric, the Archbishop of Canterbury (950?-994), who reported about his journey to the Christian caput mundi in his journal.

 

As for Castelnuovo’s architectural highlights, do admire Palazzo Amati-Ingolotti-Cornelio. Effectively restored in the 19th century, it acts as the seat of the municipality, the town archive and the Enoteca. 

 

Vermentino is a variety of Middle Eastern origins and probably (probably) spread throughout the Mediterranean basin following the lead of Spain. In Corse, Tuscany and Sardinia it features several synonyms. It is the protagonist (also in Liguria) of a wonderful wine, now more acid than aromatic. This variety usually suits sunny hillside grapevine rows, facing the sea: there grapes are amber, safe from botrytis and oidium. Yield is steady, despite a certain vulnerability (frost, hoar frost, Plasmopara viticola, Eupoecilia ambiguella (i.e. vine moth).

 

As for my favourite choice (please note this is personal), my heart beats for “La Colombiera” (inaugurating a new tasting room in 2018), Ottaviano Lambruschi (his crus acting as bridges between the Roman age and the future), and Giacomelli (located in the hamlet of Palvotrisia, which shares the remains of a necropolis with Luni). 

 

Local cuisine boasts ancient recipes, the choice of the protagonists of the gourmet scene of the past Gino Veronelli, Mario Soldati…, as well as Angelo Paracucchi, who ran his restaurant close by and loved to chase traditions in each borgo and vegetable garden of the surroundings.

 

Dear Reader, enjoy these wonders in Castelnuovo Magra. It is no coincidence that Liguria is represented in atlases (and in Google Maps) the way it is: facing the sea and the mountains at the same time. Liguria is set there, in that very place, because it is fantastic to meet right there.

 

My English abstract of the article by Umberto Curti as published on Liguria Food  

Luisa Puppo
This is the fascinating world of tastes and crafts that LiguriabyLuisa discloses to foreign markets and buyers (tour operators, travel agencies, organizations, associations, food&wine dealers and import/export professionals....).

Would you like to know more? Contact me and detail your queries.