COFFEE: ALL'S WELL THAT STARTS WELL

A brew of Italianity: from Naples to Trieste, from Genoa to Turin, coffee is a part of the national identity. However, despite its popularity coffee is a sort of Great Unknown – legends abound even around its origins. The western world privileges green coffee in its mixed “Robusta” (usually from Guinea and Uganda), or “Arabica” (the most precious, especially from Ethiopia) varieties.

Coffee beans

Coffee was already traded by the Venetians in the 17th century. As the ports of Venice, Marseille and Genoa started trading it throughout western Europe, coffee houses became popular (Venice itself boasted more than 200 establishments in the 17th century). Nowadays, coffee ranks 2nd (after oil) among the world’s most traded commodities.

The Arabica variety – identified in 1753 – is grown in Africa and America at an altitude of 600-2,000 m., 17°-23°C temperature range. The plant reaches 6 m. 1.7-2% caffeine content. White flowers with jasmin scents.  

The Robusta variety – identified in 1895 – is grown in Africa and Asia at an altitude of 200-600 m., 18°-27°C temperature range. The plant reaches 12 m. 2-4% caffeine content.

The precious Arabica being genetically fragile, cross hybridization (e.g., Arabusta = Arabica + Robusta) and grafting are used to prevent diseases.

After harvesting, coffee is processed through two different methods: 1) washed (Arabica); 2) unwashed (Robusta). Ripening, cleaning, sieving, roasting, grinding later take place. Liguria boasts several excellent crafts coffee roasting companies, such as “Minuto” (Savona) and “La Genovese” (Albenga).

Generally, Arabica is chosen for its elegance and scents (caramel, honey, biscuit, citrus fruits, chocolate…), Robusta for its full body and density”. 

The key ingredient of excellent coffee-making stands in the “magnificent 5” rule: blend, clean machine, grinder, skilful barman, maintenance – not to forget about water, preferably medium hard, like in the best Neapolitan tazzulelle. 

My English abstract of the article by Umberto Curti as published on Liguria Food

Luisa Puppo

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