SARZANA AND SPUNGATA

Sarzana, the capital of Lunigiana, presides over the Via Francigena with a wealth of architectural and gourmet resources, including spungata.

"Spungata", Sarzana's gourmet flagship

Sarzana - history in a nutshell

Set at the easternmost tip of Liguria, the town of Sarzana gained importance as an urban settlement around the year 1,000, protected by the fortress of Sarzanello, high on a hill towering over the river Magra and a route of intense passages and trades. Sarzana, in fact, stands at a multiregional crossroads  along the famous via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage route system that connected Canterbury to Rome.

Endowed with corner towers and a powerful fortified tower by Castruccio Castracani, since 1204 the fortress was also the residence of the Bishops of Luni – and paired the central Firmafede fortress.Once you pass the town walls through one of the fascinating doors that lead into the centre, the quantity and quality of palaces are astounding – a myriad botteghe, crafts workshops, antique dealers, ateliers side your walk as you reach the wide Piazza Matteotti. Miss-not visits along Via Mazzini include the pieve of Sant’Andrea, Sarzana’s most ancient church (of Romanesque origins, it was rebuilt in the 14th century) whose scuptures and paintings are remarkable, and the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, completed in 1474 after lengthy interventions: it treasures the most ancient Italian painted cross, a 1138 crucifix by Gothic artist Mastro Guglielmo.
 

Sarzana - culinary heritage

The multiregional (and rural) heritage of Sarzana also shows in its gastronomic history. Traditional local fare relies on grains, vegetables, mushrooms, game, eels, chestnuts, walnuts and hazelnuts. The surroundings offer testaroli and panigacci, rustic flour-based preparations.
In bygone days, Sarzana was rich in basic eating joints which provided the simple pleasure of piping hot chick-pea farinata, savoury pies and other appetizing street food.

However, demanding gourmet travellers will find a kaleidoscope of connoisseur finds: extra virgin olive oil, pan “morocco” (bread with minced black olives), sgabei (fried dough strips) and crescentine (thin, round breads akin to tigelle), the fit matches for the area’s cold cuts and cheese, “scarpazze” (herbs savoury pies), torte “sceme” (very basic rice savoury pies), His Majesty spelt, “spungata” (rich puff or shortcrust pastry filled with jam, dried fruits and candied fruits – the Christmas must), sweet focaccia with dried fruits and anise seeds… the palce is also renowned for its zucchini “alberello” cultivar and for durone cherries. 

As regards wine, the DOC Colli di Luni supplies whites - Vermentino (single varietal), Albarola (single varietal), Bianco (fermentino and trebbiano blend) – and reds – Rosso (sangiovese, canaiolo, pollera nera, ciliegiolo nero).

Sarzana calling!

My English abstract of the article by Umberto Curti as published on Liguria Food

Luisa Puppo

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